Morpeth is situated thirty-five kilometres north-west of Newcastle, fourteen kilometres east of Maitland and 172 kilometres north of Sydney, making it an ideal day trip or weekend away. The inland town is nestled on the southern banks of the Hunter River, and from about 1830 – 1890, it was the place to shop – with people travelling far and wide via steamship, horse and cart, bike, or foot to stock up on supplies.
Today, a number of the original sandstone buildings on the main thoroughfare of Swan Street are still standing. They include the CBC Bank, Morpeth Courthouse (now a museum), former Post Office and of course – the pub (The Commercial Hotel, formerly The Farmers Union Home Hotel). For the history and architecture buffs, there are at least twenty-five different buildings worth noting on the Morpeth Historic Trail.
The inland town is nestled on the southern banks of the Hunter River, and from about 1830 – 1890, it was the place to shop – with people travelling far and wide via steamship, horse and cart, bike or foot to stock up on supplies.
But, before you get too immersed in browsing for antiques, sampling ginger beer or simply enjoying a stroll about town – you may need to start with a little caffeine fix or bite to eat. On the northern side of Swan Street, you’ll find Common Grounds, offering an all-day brunch menu, Glee coffee and beautiful leafy views of the river from their back verandah. Unlike some cafés and stores in town who operate on a tourist-driven Thursday to Sunday roster (hot tip – check before you visit!), Common Grounds is open from 7am, seven days a week. They also have an extensive gluten-free and vegan menu on offer – so no one has to go without.
No trip to Morpeth is complete without a wander through Campbell’s Store, the two-storey yellow sandstone and brick building on the corner of Swan and Tank Streets. Built in 1835 by James Campbell, it was once the go-to destination for haberdashery, arts, crafts and other goods. Back in its hey-day, James Campbell even minted his own money to be used by patrons!
Restored to its former glory by owner Trevor Richards and family, you’ll now find an eclectic mix of specialty stores including twenty-five antique dealers, high quality giftware and the Servant’s Quarter’s Tea Rooms – for your fix of scones and tea. At the rear of the main building, wander through to Morpeth Ginger Beer Factory and Gourmet Foods and the Morpeth Investment Art Gallery, home to a collection of traditional Australian landscape and wildlife art.
As you meander around Swan Street, or venture down some of the narrow laneways, you’ll notice a truly eclectic and somewhat unexpected mix of stores. There’s the Australian Alpaca Barn for wares made from alpaca fibres, Fairytale Lane for all things magic and Disney, Miss Lily’s Lollies for that nostalgic sweet fix and a number of other independent boutiques dotted along the way. Uaine Candles offers locally made soy candles and fragrances, while Morpeth Flower Gallery has a wide selection of fresh flowers, indoor plants, and other gifts.
No trip to Morpeth is complete without a wander through Campbell’s Store… Built in 1835 by James Campbell, it was once the go-to destination for haberdashery, arts, crafts and other goods. Back in its hey-day, James Campbell even minted his own money to be used by patrons!
Lunch options are plentiful, with a number of casual eateries available, or head down to The Commercial for a pub feed. Is a picnic more your style? Walk towards the bridge for some riverside picnic tables or take a short drive to Morpeth Common – featuring expansive lawns, a tree-lined avenue (popular for wedding portraits), a playground and off-leash dog area. Don’t forget to grab a loaf of Morpeth Sourdough before you go!
But, if you’re looking for something a little bit special for lunch (or dinner), Boydell’s Cellar Door and Restaurant is an absolute must. Combining their love of the land with their love of wine, owners Daniel and Jane Maroulis took over the small-scale Gresford vineyard in 2015. The site of the vineyard is steeped in history – with many arguing that it was the first vineyard in all of NSW. Settled by Charles Boydell in 1826, Daniel and Jane honour its history by continuing to produce premium wines from the grapes grown on their picturesque property.
In 2019, an opportunity arose to open the cellar door and restaurant in Morpeth, offering tastings, wine sales and a memorable dining experience. With a strong focus on local produce, the menu changes seasonally and is always created with Boydell’s wines in mind. The interior of the cellar door takes a nod to Boydell’s colonial past, featuring rustic wooden beams and corrugated iron. It is believed that Charles Boydell made regular voyages from Paterson to Morpeth via steam paddler, so there could be no better location for a venue of its kind. Both the restaurant and cellar door are open Thursday to Sunday – with bar food also available for those wanting a more casual experience or a small bite during wine tastings.
The sunny courtyard out the back is the perfect spot for a long lunch, while the fireplace inside will keep you toasty during winter.
With a strong focus on local produce, the menu changes seasonally and is always created with Boydell’s wines in mind. The interior of the cellar door takes a nod to Boydell’s colonial past, featuring rustic wooden beams and corrugated iron.
The buzz of Swan Street’s stores and cafés tends to die down by about 3pm, so keep this in mind if planning a day trip. If you’re looking for the perfect insta-worthy shot to commemorate your day in Morpeth, be sure to stop at the ‘Indian Root Pills Building’ on the way home. Confused? Well, before billboards and digital advertising became a thing, many companies painted the sides of buildings to spruik their goods. Dr Morse (who may or may not have been a real doctor) claimed an old tin shack along Morpeth Road in neighbouring town of Tenambit to advertise their Indian Root Pills as ‘The Recommended Remedy’. We’re not exactly sure what they were the remedy for, but the shack, with its bright blue paint and white typography, certainly stands out against its picturesque farming background.
For those wanting to stay a night or two, there are plenty of options in the town itself or its surrounding areas. Just two kilometres out of Morpeth is The Hinton Chapel – built in 1856 as the Church of England and now a beautifully renovated and quirky place to stay. The church itself sleeps four guests, but larger groups can also make use of a separate studio. The Bronte Boutique Hotel on Swan Street offers eight different suites, each in a different design. The Surgeon’s Cottage is a good option for larger groups, accommodating up to ten people in two self-contained cottages. Or, for something a little bit special, Boydell’s have glamping tents onsite at their East Gresford vineyard.
In terms of casual dinner options, you can’t go past Morpeth Woodfire Pizza and Indian. It sounds like an unlikely combination, but it somehow works. Head to the leafy back courtyard to dine in, where you may be greeted by a family of resident lizards.
Novocastrians are truly spoilt for choice when it comes to fun days out or weekends away, but next time you’re keen to escape the hustle and bustle, don’t look past Morpeth. With more recent additions like Boydell’s and Common Grounds, there’s a sense of renewed life to the town, coupled with those tastes of nostalgia we often crave too.
Top 5 Highlights
1. Riverside coffee or brunch at Common Grounds café
2. A wander through Campbell’s Store, Morpeth Fine Foods & Ginger Beer plus Morpeth Gallery
3. Wine tasting or a long lunch at Boydell’s Restaurant and Cellar Door
4. A picnic or afternoon stroll through Morpeth Common
5. Insta-worthy photo opps at the Morpeth Bridge and Dr Morse’s Indian Root Pills building.
